Hey there!

We are four young ladies taking a “Strategic Brand Management” class and here is our blog covering the deodorant market.

Through this blog we want to explore the overall market, but also to go deeper into the analysis of the motivations and the emotions of consumers of deodorants.

Enjoy!

History of Deodorants

The history of deodorant goes back centuries. As long as people have been sweating and stinking, people have been searching for ways to limit the impact of their odors. Once you've read this history of deodorant products, you'll consider yourself lucky to live in this age of advanced odor-control.

Before Commercial Deodorant- Before commercial deodorant was available, people spent centuries creating ways to mask the smell of their body odors. Among some of the approaches were:

• Heavy scents. The Egyptians created a blend of citrus and cinnamon that resisted the tendency of many scents to turn rancid; this was used as an early deodorant. Incense, carob and other perfumes were used as well.
• Removal of underarm hair. Some people realized that the removal of underarm hair cut down on the unpleasant body odor, so this practice became commonplace in certain sects of society throughout the world. The reason the removal of underarm hair works is because the hair provides more surface for the bacteria that produces body odor to grow; this bacteria grows best in warm, wet places, so the underarm area is a perfect breeding ground for smelly bacteria. People learned that removing the underarm hair, washing often, and applying a heavy scent helped deal with the body odor problem.
• Salt preparations. In some parts of Asia, the application of rock salt became a popular deodorant. The salt kills off the bacteria under the arms, working much like modern day deodorants. You'd still sweat, but at least it didn't smell so bad. You can still buy rock salt deodorants online.

Commercial DeodorantsWhen commercial antiperspirant made its debut onto the market in 1888, the deodorant world began to change forever.

In 1888 the first commercial antiperspirant was developed and sold. It was called Mum and was a zinc chloride and wax paste you applied to your underarms. It was sticky, tacky and messy, but it helped to kill bacteria, which meant less odor.

In the 1890s, a variety of antiperspirants made with aluminum chloride were developed. Aluminum chloride prevented odor by reducing sweating. By 1900, a host of antiperspirants in a variety of forms were on the market as sticks, powders, dabbers, pastes, creams and roll-ons.

In the 1950s, aerosol antiperspirants and deodorants containing aluminum zirconium and chlorofluorocarbon propellants appeared on the market. These products became so popular that they accounted for over 80 percent of antiperspirant sales by the 1970s. However, in 1977 the US government banned the use of aluminum zirconium because they worried about the effect of this agent when inhaled, and the Environmental Protection Agency restricted the use of chlorofluorocarbon propellants. Aerosol antiperspirants went from popular to almost non-existent even though the companies producing them quickly found alternatives to the banned ingredients.

In the late 1970s, stick deodorants and antiperspirants gained popularity. While roll-ons, aerosol, dabbers and powders are still available, stick preparations have remained the most popular. Most stick deodorants contain aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum chloride, aluminum sulfate or aluminum zirconium. One of these compounds is mixed with a waxy substance to create a stick that will both inhibit sweating and kill bacteria.

Today, pleasant scents are often added to the mixture to create a lovely aroma as you apply the substance to your freshly cleaned underarms. The end result? You end up smelling like a rose.

Overview of the market

Deodorants are part of many people’s lives. They are part of the segment “hygiene & beauty”, and we can find them in hyper and supermarkets, but also in pharmacies, drugstores, or also beauty shop, depending of the brand.

 

Whereas today hygiene and beauty products seem to be negatively affected by the economic crisis (- 2 % of gross sales in P4 2009), deodorants are not. Indeed, deodorant is seen as staple, and even in economic crisis period, we do not go out without deo!  So, on the same period, deodorants have represented a turnover of 415 million Euros, which represents 7,5% of the segment hygiene-beauty (total turnover of 5,5 billion Euros)

The deodorant market is quite competitive, and we can find three main players that are sharing two third of it:

-       Laboratoires LaScad, from L’Oreal (Mennen, Narta, Ushuaia)

-       Unilever France (Axe, Brut, Dove, Men+Care, Rexona)

-       Coty (Adidas, Play Boy…)

In France, the deodorant market can be segmented like this:

-FMCG brands

- Pharmaceutical brands

-Perfumes brands

- Organic brands

And in each of them, deodorants can be presented in different forms: creams, pumps, roll-ons, sprays, sticks, or wipes.

Each segment offers differences in term of price, ingredients, scents, but also in term of purpose of the use or even of the user’s personality. Indeed, FMCG brands are considered as the cheapest ones, but offer a wide range of brands. We will analyze some of them later. They offer deodorants with different purposes (anti-white trace, long lasting effect, special odors, deodorants for sport efforts…). Many brands also play on the environmental vibe and offer organic deodorants without aluminum for example. We can also find deodorants in pharmacies, where their purposes of action are more specific: they are dedicated for people with sensitive skin, or for people who suffer from excessive sweating. Beauty shops like Sephora offer deodorants that are variations of famous fragrances. Finally, some more organic oriented brands like Lush Cosmetics or L’Occitane en Provence offer solid deodorants that are 100% natural.

Performance and Benefits

As you stand in front of the the antiperspirant/deodorant shelf, will you find the performance benefits you are looking for in a product through the clutter of multiple brands offered?

Visualize yourself as a consumer and start off with a basic question: do you have a problem with underarm odor or wetness? If so, you are not alone. Most people do. Although some cultures consider underarm odor and wetness unimportant, most cultures find it offensive. Those that do probably use some type of deodorant or antiperspirant.

Consumers who visit a retail store and navigate through the large array of antiperspirant/deodorant products available are overwhelmed. There are so many to choose from and they look the same, having similar messages. All these choices often lead consumers to go with a product that is familiar.

Interestingly, over the last six years the leaders have not radically changed.

Four of those companies control more than 80 percent of the market. There are at least 22 brands with multiple forms and fragrances.

Deodorants can mean different things based on their mode of action. A deodorant by definition is something that cosmetically masks, absorbs or prevents odors.

> Like a fragrance, a deodorant may have a masking effect. All underarm products, whether deodorantor antiperspirant, use fragrances to provide a pleasing scent that counteracts or masks body odor.

> A deodorant may absorb and lock up the odor chemically. Cyclodextrin, carbohydrates and clays are examples of ingredients that absorb the odor-causing compounds.
Most underarm deodorant products act to eliminate the perception of odor, but the masking performance of the fragrance varies. Fragrance preferences and personal hygiene have a lot to do with performance in this area.

How do you determine the best form and product to use? Deodorant is generally enough for just an odor problem. For heavier sweat that stains clothes, something stronger for wetness protection may be needed.

Strategies

Every consumer company wants to differentiate itself. The consumer has basic needs in mind when choosing to buy an underarm product. The compelling reasons are odor and wetness protection. If it doesn't deliver this protection, a deodorant or antiperspirant with other benefits has minimal value. Due to formulation design or antiperspirant active selection, some products will be more effective than others. Skin physiology, diet, comfort tolerances and level of activity play a key role in the perception of performance.


Once a product provides the basics, the real differentiation begins. The package and print claims can be daunting. Most will promote odor and wetness protection and promise the maximum or ultimate strength and performance. The trend over the past few years has been an invisible or transparent product focused on the promise of elimination of residue on the skin and clothing.


As long as there is competition in the marketplace, consumer companies will continue to try to differentiate with novel packaging, multiple claims, superior performance and better fragrances. Overall, nobody wants a product that is irritating, wet, tacky or sticky, leaves a white mark on clothing or is unappealing to the senses. So where do we go from here?


Today's trends suggest products that easily wash off, have advanced deodorancy, prevent shaving irritation and use visual cues such as stripes and beads. Globally, some interesting trends are evolving. Whether they have staying power will be in the hands of the consumer.

Male Market

As deodorants are part of the “beauty & hygiene” segment, the first target that pops into our minds is women. Even if men can also using deodorants, studies have shown that men over 45 years old were not necessarily using deo every day. However, the today new generation of young men is more and more perceived by the beauty industry as an important target to care of, as they like to take care of them, and have no shame in using beauty products. Because of this new trend, innovation for men deodorants is booming, and thanks to men, the loss in value (-0,6% in 2009) and in volume (-1,6%) of women deodorants is compensated by the dynamic men deodorants sales (+3,9% in value and +3% in volume). On the same period, the index of penetration of deodorants for men was 36% (compared to 51% for women), but brands expect to make this index grow to 40-45% in the next years. 

The offer for men could be seen as identical to the women offer, with FMCG deodorants, pharmaceuticals, fragranced deodorants, and organic ones, depending of the needs. However, some brands seem to understand men’s needs better than others, like Axe (24,2% of market shares in value in 2009). We will analyze this brand to see how it manages its success. Following Axe, we find the brand Brut (Unilever Group), and Adidas (Coty group), which is constantly, innovate in order to gain market shares in front of its main competitors. Other brands like Play Boy (Coty Group), or Nivea, are sharing the rest of the market for FMCG.

Thanks to this “new generation” of males who are more sensitive about the beauty aspect, and also thanks to sociological factors of seduction, deodorants created by famous fragrances also encounter a great success toward the masculine target. To cite some of them: “Le Male” by Jean Paul Gautier, “Chrome” by Azzaro, “Hugo Man” by Hugo Boss…

Organic Trend

Innovations go further with the wave of natural products, and organic brands diversifying their offerings to best meet consumers’ expectations. While the segment " nature" is growing, it still is very small (6.5% of the market value at P5 2009). But brands like Sanex and Mon Savon for example have positioned themsleves in this natural and organic segment, with products based on alum stone (“Sanex Nature Protect antitrace white” and “Monsavon Lotus Flower and Almond”). And it works. "These are the only two brands that are experiencing double-digit growth," mentions Julien Ribault, Product manager Sanex and Monsavon, “with, respectively, sales up 28% and 30%, CAM P4 2009”

But these kind of brands surfing on the new organic trend are facing a main competitor: Bio Ushuaia, from Lascad (L’Oreal Group). Bio Ushuaia has been labeled “Cosmébio”, ans is placed in the top of the range. This success is explained by the the reputation of Ushuaia, number 2 of the female deodorants. 

Other smaller players also explore this segment, like Bio Kuomayé (present in 100 stores), which has launched a deodorant in the alum stone and Ecocert certified Cosmébio in 2008. Weleda, distributed in drugstores, pharmacies and specialty stores, moved, for one, three references, Citrus, Sage and Rose (launched in 2005). These deodorant spray and are certified BDIH Natrue. For its part, the Institute Jérodia launched on each of its three brands, a reference to deodorants essential oils, labeled Cosmebio and Ecocert: Phyt's (institutes), Gamarde (pharmacies) and Biguine Bio (Casino and chains hair Biguine). These references are available in spray-free nitrogen to be green all the way.

All other brands, who see this market as a niche with great potential, seek to innovate in order to position themselves on it. Nivea, for example, has a range without aluminum salt. Similarly, in 2008, Unilever launched the new Dove Go Fresh deodorant whose ingredients are of natural origin only.

After the segment of men and natural, brands will have to tap into their imagination to continue to innovate!

Cultural Strategies: The Beauty Myth

If we think about civilisations that came before us and what it meant to be attractive, we can see that time has brought on many changes when it comes to the subject of what is considered appealing and acceptable.

Although we would probably feel ill at the smell of our predecessors, they didn't consider antiperspirants to be necessary. In fact, the subject of underarm hair was not at all what it is today. As the global picture of beauty begins to fuse into a common image thanks to internet, cross cultural communication and activity, the cultural of perceptions of what is beautiful and what isn't change.

Why do we now think that underarm hair is disguisting? There are pictures off red-carpets showing the stubble of stars and highlighting the imperfection of an armpit that is not ultra-smooth. Underarm regions are photoshopped to make them appear smoother and uncharacteristic.

During the "hippy-era" women proudly flaunted their body hair and refused to be slaves to society's expectations of grooming and deportment. After an array of feminist movements, revolutions and changes in the way women are portrayed and perceived, what have we come down to? These days a so-called "hollywood wax" is almost implied and women are left looking like their prepubescent hairless selves. The myth of beauty and what is beautiful has spoken. Smooth=beautiful. Scented=beautiful. Deodorant is now an essential element of every persons hygene and grooming routine, because at the end of the day everybody aspires to be more beautiful.

Rexona

Today when we use our deodorants before starting the day, it seems like a basic product that fits into our lives logically, because it answers to a need that humans may have since ever: covering transpiration odors. Yet, what if we tell you that the first deodorant (which was actually more like a “deo-soap”) was in fact introduced in France only 50 years ago?… Doesn’t seem like a basic product anymore, right ?!

It is the brand Unilever who created the brand “Rexona” in 1957, and launched the first “deo-soap” in France. Then of course, other brands followed the trend. 

As a pioneer, Rexona has the responsibility to innovate permanently to keep this image. She (yes, Rexona sounds like a girl’s name, so we assume it is a “she”!) has to innovate to answer to her consumers’ basic needs –covering odors, but also to answer to less obvious ones: avoiding white traces that can be embarrassing when wearing shirts or dresses, young girls special needs towards transpiration due to puberty, etc…

Rexona seems to well understand that under-arms products concern everyone, so she offers a range that fits to three different targets: women, men, and teenage girls. 

But because 50 years have passed since the first launch of its very innovative “deo-soap”, consumers tend to forget she was the pioneer on the market. Because of this, she has to prove even more today her uniqueness and her knowledge on the deodorant market, and to do so through innovative packaging and products.

This is why, in 2008, she launched a new format for her roller-deo with the roller “down”. With this new format, she answers a basic need that is to be able to “finish” the whole product, which was impossible before (remember you fighting with your roller-deo, shaking it so the liquid could finally go from the bottom of the tube to the roller – yes, like you still do with your shampoo or your shower gel!)

To conclude, innovation is the reflection of Rexona’s personality and image. It is a way for her to maintain brand awareness toward potential consumers, and also to assert her leader position.

Rexona's Communication Strategy

Rexona is a leader because she is seen has a brand of trust: always innovative with simple products that target all the family. However, because consumers tend to forget it was the pioneer on the deodorant market, Rexona needs to have a strong image through the media in order to be memorable and increase her brand awareness. Yet, if we compare her with Narta who always uses a memorable blonde actress dancing arms in the air to show she has no white-trace under her arms on the same music in every commercial since decades, or if we compare her with Dove who plays on the softness, or even with Axe which has a very memorable communication plan (playing on the seduction), Rexona has difficulties to do so. 

This is why this year Rexona has launched a new campaign for her new product category “Motion Sense”. In the TV commercial, she uses a celebrity endorser (Laeticia Milot, actress in “Plus Belle la Vie”) who is wearing a –kind of annoying- bracelet that jingles at every movement. This is to show that we are in permanent movement during the day, and so that “Motion Sense” will better fit your needs in terms of transpiration because it will activate at each of your movement.

In this campaign, we have a memorable actress, a memorable sounds, so Rexona might find a way to compete with other brands famous campaign.

Also, in the new men deodorant campaign, she emphasizes on her leader status by concretely saying “From the brand N.1 around the world”. She also reminds to the audience why they could be seduced by her products by adding “Rexona will not let you down”. By focusing on the main characteristics of the brand –leader and a brand of trust, this campaign is also a good way for Rexona to be memorable.

DOVE DEODORANT

Dove has traditionally differentiated itself as the deodorant with 1 quarter moisturising cream. In contrast to other deodorants, whose key selling point is the ability to keep sweat at bay, Dove has presented the problem of damage caused by shaving and a solution in the form of their deodorant product. The logo itself communicates the brand's attiributes, using feminine italic font and a golden Dove that symbolises class, tranquillity and fragility.

Dove deodorant campaigns deal with two main consumer needs and presents benefits to address them:

-          Esteem:  Most of us aspire to be the optimal version of ourselves. Confident, accepted and respected. This includes our aesthetic appearance and Dove provides a product that nurtures and beautifies a traditionally neglected part of the body whist boosting our confidence. The confidence which subsequently supports spontaneity and the need for self-actualization.

-          Love and Belonging: The threat of a sweaty armpit creates an uncomfortable feeling and is considered socially unacceptable in a modern society. Dove’s promise it to keep you “protected” from perspiration and it’s negative social consequences. This in turn makes us more attractive and open to intimacy in all forms.

Although the Dove campaigns are associated with celebrating beauty in all forms, shapes and sizes, creating a balance between the functional and the emotional connections of it’s  customers to their products is a challenge in the deodorant sector. Dove’s product range uses not only the emotional appeal of being happy with yourself and your appearance but incorporates aspects of statistics, ingredient details and functional benefits in its key messages.

The below advertisement shows the “Effective Protection, Beautiful Result.”  Campaign for the original Dove deodorant.

The visual shows smiling, happy and confident women who are eager to show off their smooth armpits. The message of the advertisement is extremely clear, as it presents a problem (damage caused by shaving) and a solution (deodorant which aids repair) in simplified language and supported by a graphic demonstration of a razor ripping a soft fibre. The antiperspirant quality of the deodorant takes a back seat to the beauty benefit but the logan suggests that effectiveness is almost implied and expected.

 The customer engages with the brand on a functional level but also emotional as the nourishing aspect is being used to differentiate Dove from antiperspirant competitors and the association customers have when it comes to Dove is it’s moisturizing qualities and celebration and respect of women.

DOVE MINIMISING- Going international

How does a brand create an identity that is internationally recognised, relevant and adaptable to different cultures? Dove's Hair Minimising Deodorant is an example of a deodorant product which has transcended cultural barriers although adapting it's communication strategy minimally to cater for different markets. The best way to understand the relationship between the profile of the audience and the positioning of the brand and it's product benefits is to compare and contrast. Below are two contrasting television advertisements for the Dove Hair Minimising Deodorant. Note that the same footage and visuals from the first video were used in several campaigns (Australia, UK, Portugal) with locally produced voiceovers over the existing scenes.

 The anglosaxon markets need to feel more secure about their choice on a rational level. Therefore the key ingredient is highlighted as a selling point and the effectiveness of the product is presented in a less emotional and more functional manner. The key message is being "stubble free for longer". It is a benefit that is universal to all cultures and the adaptation of the voiceover simply serves to create more local familiarity with the person selling the concept.

 In the comparison of these two adverisements we can see the clear differences between the prioritised values of customers in different markets. The Italian and Brazillian versions of the ad rely on testimonials and talk about family, friends, peer support and acceptance. The close-knit family environment and value of trust and reputation are a basis for these advertisements to feature women customers can identify with and relate to. They put their name on their testimonial and in an informal tone recommend the product as they would to their best friend. There is no emphasis of ingredients or scientific demonstrations, the advertisement relies on emotional appeals.

Dove Sensitive Advertisement Analysis

French consumers are drawn to products that have natural ingredients and do not pollute the environment. American companies advertising deodorant in France, for instance, must convince the French consumer that their product contains no harmful chemicals. Having analyzed the product from a medical/health perspective, the French tend to look for the most natural product available on the market. In a recent French ad for a deodorant sold under the brand name Dove Sensitive(TM), the headline takes into account typical French attitudes towards a product of this nature: "It's not what's in it that makes it different. It's what's not in there" (author's translation). 

In the visual, one notices that the product is set against a white background, drawing the reader's attention to the headline which essentially serves as an attention-getter for audiences so accustomed to the opposite (product detailing in advertising). With the color scheme and positioning of elements on the page, the company communicates the idea that Dove presents a "simple" and "natural" alternative solution, free of skin irritants and other "hazardous ingredients." The connotations of "gentleness" and "naturalness" are reinforced by the product name (Dove SensitiveÔ) and the text appearing on either side of the bottle ("no alcohol, no perfume, no artificial coloring"). Additional reassurance comes in the form of a tagline at the bottom of the page: It's hypoallergenic, it works, and that's all there is to it.

Axe / Lynx

There is no secret brands are a big part of our lives, they are not only different options with an adherent value, they are also a representation of how and what we buy and a definition of who we are and what kind of life we are living.

In a market with many options, to be able to stand out you have to define what makes your product special and different from others, what are the benefits you are bringing to your customer.

Axe was born in France in 1983 and created by UNILEVER; Axe was created inspired by another Unilever’s brand called “ Impulse” which was a fragranced deodorant body spray for women that promised to attract male attention; they enthusiastically capitalized axe success and launched it to the rest of Europe from 1985 onwards.

The brand offers deodorant body spray, sticks, roll-ons, anti perspirants, aftershaves and shower gels. Axe is considered the number one worldwide brand of men’s grooming products and can be found in over 60 countries; in Australia, New Zealand, Ireland and the United Kingdom it is named Lynx due to conflicts regarding trademark.

Axe has established itself as one of the most high-profile brands as a result of its unique eye-catching and prolific marketing which offers an exaggerated view of the product’s effect on women. Its products are consistently targeted to 18-25 year old males and not all axe products are marketed in all countries. It claims to be cool, iconic and seductive; they come up with a constant stream of new ideas to keep guys a step ahead in the "mating game". They have an excellent track record of advertising awards and they represent well-established brand leaders in Europe And Latin America.

Axe is a good example of a solid brand consistent to its personality; some might consider it a little bit sexist and male chauvinist but still is a marketing phenomenon that keeps excitement in the market.

AXE Brand Strategy Communication

The brand axe is considered to be one of the most recognized brands in a short period of time thanks to intense and successful campaigns based on previous studies on consumer behavior.

Taking into account the young target audience, they focused their energies into what they considered an important issue to teenagers and young adults “getting the girl”, how to get women’s attention. The objectives of AXE campaigns are to reintroduce men’s personal care products in a hip and attractive way; this is what they consider “The AXE EFFECT”.

The Axe Effect is an internationally recognized name for the increased attention Axe-wearing males receive from eager, and attractive, female pursuers

Axe is promoted extensively through its various advertising campaigns. The highlights of AXE campaign to create their message and communicate to their audience were that if you used their products women will fall over you, you will look and smell good, gaining strong confidence when asking a woman and as final result you will for sure get the girl you dream of. One of the main elements is “ the girl”, everything surround about how you will get it to be able to convince their consumers that the only thing they need is AXE products and they will have the same as the commercial or advertisements implies. They rely on implicit and explicit sexual references in edgy videos design to intricate on the “boy gets girl” theme.

Right now in French market you could find the following products with their campaigns:

-Provocation: the fallen angels

- Dark Temptation: As irresistible as chocolate..

- Hot Fever: Who has the biggest Maracas?

- Cool Metal: Keep a cool head.

- Twist: Fais vibrer les filles.

- Rise Up: Get ready!

- Vice Makes girls less wise.

Also you can find Marine, Musk, Click, Shock, LEndemain Difficile among others.

And for the same type of products and campaigns a new line called DRY:

Dry Full Control

- Dry Provocation

- Dry Dark Temptation

- Dry Sharp Focus

- Dry Click

- Dry Twist

Axe Twist: Are You Ready For the Challenge?

In the original campaign once more axe tries to communicate that good smell can produce the desired impression that helps when it comes to women. They suggest that Axe twist can change and adapt to the situations needed. The comparison with the product shows a man that goes on a date, at the beginning she does not seem quiet interested in him, so big robotic hands changes his appearance and he gets a chance to walk her home, but since that appearance its not the type of a “girl letting him in” the axe magic works again and transform him into a masculine sort of James Dean image.

The campaign launched in France of Axe Twist

The campaign is launched with Clara Morgane and basically she goes on a date with this guy that changes with “the magic of Axe twist” to keep her interested, in the end the changes are so good that he also gets the waitress attention. The campaign also involves the consumer promoting to subscribe in twitter to win a photo-shoot with Clara Morgane. This approach emphasized the fact that axe twist allows to change of smell throughout the day to increase what they considered “your seductive potential” with girls while keeping a real freshness. This product plays with the idea that indeed it is easy to attract women but is harder to keep a girl interested because they get tired easily.